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Sharpen Up The Knives

May 31, 2023 by Les

Recently, I had surgery to repair a hernia. I seem to be somewhat prone to hernias. The obvious reason is that I come from a place called Herne Bay, but that would only be funny if it were called Hernia Bay. And, even then, maybe not.

In Mostly Fun – Soft Nut Bike Tours of Laos and Thailand, I mentioned how I suspected I had a hernia after the first cycling trip in Laos. I’ve described in the book how a doctor in Bangkok assured me I didn’t. How wrong he was.

Back in Brisbane, I’d had an ultrasound and various strangers poking and prodding, while I coughed obediently, to confirm the issue and was now at the hospital ready to be sliced open and stitched up. Check-in was simple enough. Actually, easier than checking in for a flight, hotel or car pick-up. No lengthy discussions or interrogation regarding my bags or validating of my credit card. They just asked me a few questions about the procedure I was in for. I thought this strange as surely, they should know? But I think they do this at hospitals to check that you are aware of what’s going on – compos mentis as Boris might say.

All questions answered correctly, I was ushered into a small room and told to don a purple gown, orange socks, and a pair of saucy underpants. There was a hairnet too but the nurse said I didn’t need that. Fully kitted up in this bizarre, sad clown, outfit I waited for a while in another small room with a huge television. As I was watching the news headlines for the seventh or eighth time another nurse came in and showed me to a bed in an open ward. “They’ll come and get you soon,” she said brightly. My surgery was scheduled for 11:30am and it was now about 11:15am so I was impressed by this.

Temperature settings in the various rooms were a challenge. I’d noticed that the further I went into the building, the colder it became. The temperature in this beehive-like waiting ward was around 20 degrees, not that cold, but when you are dressed in an ill-fitting cotton nightshirt you really feel it. I snuggled up under the blanket I’d been given and patiently awaited my fate. There was another guy in the adjacent bed but he didn’t say much. After about 30 minutes, the swing doors at the end of the room opened and a, far too jolly, male nurse came in, “Right let’s go,” he said to the fellow next to me as he wheeled him away. Turning briefly to me he said, “It’ll be an hour or two.” And then he was gone. Another nurse came over, “Gall bladder” she said “takes a while”. So much for being on time.

As I lay on my crisp white sheet, I started to familiarise myself with the system. When I’d crawled into bed, I thought there was just this one chap in front of me. But I now noticed a number of women, mostly seated on large recliners, at the other end of the ward. We were separated by a thin curtain; for reasons of propriety no doubt. Most of these elderly ladies were there for cataract surgery. There were about five of them so I guess it must have been cataract-Friday. Some kind of 2-for-1 deal perhaps? I waited. Each time the large double-doors swung open I hoped it was my turn but was always disappointed as another lady was wheeled away. This went on for a while but eventually, after a couple of hours, the jolly fellow returned and it was my turn.

Being wheeled, bedbound, through hospital corridors is a strange experience. Your view is restricted; mainly it consists of a ceiling with the occasional friendly face peering down at you. We entered a small room, which was even colder than the one I had just come from. They put a large tube under the sheet and blew hot air on me, weird but lovely. Naively, I thought this was the operating theatre and was surprised at how small it was. But of course, it was just another waiting room. Nurses came and went, asking me my name and date of birth. Occasionally they clipped things to me. An anaesthetist entered and asked me more questions; he seemed very concerned about any false, or loose, teeth I might have.  I was able to convince him my molars were all either natural, or else well screwed, or glued, in. Two doctors came by and, after a bit more prodding, poking and coughing, went away. One drew a small arrow on my lower abdomen and, a few minutes later, the other checked its location with her cold hands.

And then it happened. The jolly nurse returned, “We’re ready for you now,” he said. “Walk into the theatre.” “Wait, what, walk?” I thought. I’ve been in bed, wheeled all over this place and now you want me to walk into the operating theatre?” But I did what I was told. Slipping out of the warm bed, I padded, in my orange socks and ill-fitting purple gown, through the open door and into the vast, brightly lit, room. I momentarily thought I had passed through a portal and rematerialized on the bridge of the Starship Enterprise. Strangely dressed people were hunched over display screens in various corners of the cavernous room. Placed, almost majestically, in the centre of this enormous space, was a surprisingly narrow, pristine-looking bed. Two giant lights were suspended above it. “Good afternoon, all,” I said politely, as I entered, but nobody was listening. I hopped up on the bed making an inane comment about how narrow it was and that I hoped I would not fall off. A different anaesthetist, I think, it was difficult to tell people apart as they all sported strange headgear, appeared and told me to relax. Someone else placed a mask over my face which made me cough. Potions were pumped into my arm and off I went, to the land of nod.

Surgery over, I returned home to groan quietly to myself, while nature healed me. I dined on painkillers and fibre for a few days. Slowly my body restored itself. I thought how lucky I was that I came from Herne Bay, Kent and not say, Bald Knob, Arkansas.

To read more about the cycling adventure that may have been responsible for my injury, buy your copy of Mostly Fun – Soft Nut Bike Tours of Laos and Thailand.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

01/01/2023 – Happy New Year, Earthlings

January 1, 2023 by Les

The benevolent aliens arrived today. They apologised for being late but said that, even with their level of technology and using the, slingshot around a black hole manoeuvre, getting here still took a while.

On arrival, they immediately incapacitated all weapons. They explained they’d been working remotely to fix the hole in the ozone layer and would give us well-needed help to reverse global warming as well as provide advice on kick-starting a global nuclear fusion energy source. All coal-fired power stations were subsequently repurposed by WeWork into libraries and co-shared working spaces.


High on their agenda was removing Putin from power. This was easy to achieve when Putin challenged the aliens to a wrestling match. As defeating the despot was so important, they accepted his challenge, despite it going against their strict, violence is the last resort of the incompetent ruling. His failure to appreciate the advantage their extra limbs gave them proved to be his downfall.


Ridding the world of Trump was also remarkably simple. A minor change to the weapon’s disabling software was made so that it included hairdryers. Trump, unable to maintain his ridiculous comb-over became so embarrassed he refused to appear in public and his moronic followers soon forgot who he was. Trump pleaded guilty to 743 of the 744 criminal charges he was indicted for, in return for serving his term at the Idaho State Penitentiary and potato farm. He could not bring himself to admit to the 744th charge of financial fraud as this would require recognition of his impoverished state.

In North Korea, the vast amount of money that chubby Kim had been using to fund his weapons program was immediately put to use to feed the starving population who became much healthier and were able to storm his palace and throw him into one of the many pools in his giant waterpark.

The aliens, in an attempt to gain favour and show that they understood Earth humour named this project The Three Stooges removal program. Catchy.

As a minor side project Boris Johnson was removed from the public eye in a bizarre table-tennis accident. The aliens called this The Wif-Waf project.

Their grasp of the subtleties of humour still needed some work. But it wasn’t a bad start to the year.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Christmas with Graham Norton

December 21, 2022 by Les

Last night I dreamt I was a guest on the Graham Norton show. Joining me were Bruce Springsteen, Stephen Fry and Scarlett Johansson.

Being the least famous, I was the first to be greeted by the always effervescing Norton himself and introduced to the audience. I shook hands with Graham and gave the audience a brief wave. They were no doubt wondering, who the heck is this guy? Then I took my place at the far end of the famous red couch.

A few seconds later, I was joined by Stephen Fry who had given Graham a quick but affectionate kiss on the cheek before making his way towards me and sitting down. I could not help but notice how big his feet were. I was pleased he didn’t offer to kiss me.

Stephen “Bigfoot” Fry

Next came Scarlett. She wafted in smiling brighter than the sun, gave the host a huge hug, a double cheek kiss and then approached us. Both Stephen and I leapt to our feet. She kissed Stephen but I only received a warm soft hand. I was disappointed that I hadn’t also been granted a kiss.

Scarlett Beams In From Planet Beautiful

Then before I knew what was happening, a grinning Bruce had walked on set, shaken hands with Graham, kissed Scarlett, smiled at Stephen, and pretty much ignored me. He sat in his standard immaculate black suit and shirt, just a few feet away. He was smaller than I imagined.

Bruce “heh heh” Springsteen

Graham shuffled his cue cards and dove straight into his questions. I remembered, from having watched his show many times, that he usually starts with the least well-known person. The warm-up act as it were.

The Amiable Host Himself

“So, Les Stanley” he said smiling, “you have a new book out. Cannes Encore! (He actually pronounced the exclamation mark) Travel In The Time Of COVID. Capital letters (he said that too). Tell us all about it.” The pressure was on. I started talking, aware that I was on a couch with probably one of the most well-read men in the world.

“It’s a kind of travel book’ I said, clumsily.” I could see Scarlett’s smile beginning to wane, I sensed the room becoming darker. Bruce was looking half at me and half at the floor, probably working on a new song. I blundered on. Stephen appeared genuinely interested.

“How interesting” he said. I pushed on.

“Yes, I tried to tell the truth about travel. It’s not all wonderful and amazing. Sometimes things go wrong. Especially if you set off with your wife” This cheap joke got a bit of a laugh from the audience. Bruce chortled quietly. Scarlet didn’t react. Stephen kindly said,

“Oh how true,” then added raffishly, “or husband”.

Possibly The Greatest Novel Of The 21st Century. Available As An E-book And In Paperback

Graham sensed that I was about to begin a long rant and cleverly interrupted saying,

“Well it’s very funny, in parts.” He definitely hesitated, turning a compliment into a slight insult. “I’m sure we wish you all the best with it.”
“Thanks” I responded lamely, realising that my 15 minutes of fame was probably over in less than three.

Graham moved smoothly on and asked Scarlet why she was in London. I took the opportunity to stare at the side of her face in the spotlight so clear, but I wasn’t really listening to what she said. I caught a few snippets of the conversation; a play of some kind in the West End, something she’d always wanted to do. But really, I was considering my own feeble effort at being a celebrity. Thinking hard about what to say next, in case Graham focused on me again. After a short but entertaining discourse with Scarlett, he moved his attention to Bruce.

“Now, Bruce you’re in London as part of a massive world tour. Three nights at Wembley, then Manchester, Glasgow and off to Ireland and the rest of Europe.”

“That’s right” replied Bruce “On the road again, heh heh.” He had an endearing habit of adding a throaty giggle to anything he said. It was almost as if he still couldn’t believe how popular he was. Suddenly, as Bruce started looking at the carpet again, Graham directed a question at me. It was quite disarming how he would look subtly at his cue cards and then throw out what seemed like an almost random question.

“You’re a big Bruce fan, aren’t you? You’ve seen him in concert a few times and he even gets a mention in your first book My Brother’s Bicycle.” For a moment I was confused. Graham continued “you know the time-travel thing.” Bruce looked at me quizzically, Scarlett’s blue eyes pierced my skull, Stephen whispered, almost to himself,

“time-travel, really, how fascinating.” I was in the spotlight again. It was my chance to shine. The pressure was on.

That Less Difficult First Novel. You Know, The One With Bruce In It

I rose to the occasion,

“Wow, I’m impressed you’ve even read my first book,” I said to Graham (always flatter the host).

“Yes, there are a couple of fantasy sections involving Star Trek, Henry Miller and Bruce.”

“Goodness” muttered Stephen “how did you combine those tangential subjects?” Scarlett lent forward slightly and touched my leg. I wasn’t sure why, but I wasn’t about to complain. I also realised that, bizarrely, I was falling more and more in love with Stephen. I carried on as best I could and explained how a malfunction of the Heisenberg compensator, had caused a rift in time and Henry and Bruce had been transported to Southern France circa 2010.

Bruce didn’t seem overly impressed about being mentioned in my book, but was interested in my obvious fandom,

“So which concerts did you see?” he asked, staring right at me. Bruce Springsteen, The Boss, The Hardest Working Man in Music was asking me a direct question.

“Copenhagen in ’81 on The River Tour and Brisbane 2002 on The Rising Tour” I replied. He seemed impressed that I could name the tours and said,

“Brisbane, it’s a beautiful city.” I sat back, satisfied that we had bonded on a whole new level. Graham was talking to Scarlett again about the play she was appearing in but I wasn’t really listening. She effused for a while about how live theatre was real acting and then, seeming almost to tire of talking about the subject herself, said, directly to me,

“Copenhagen? My dad was from Copenhagen. How long did you live there?” Scarlet Johansson, often described as the most beautiful woman in the world, had asked me a direct question.

“Oh, just under a year” I replied, “in the early ‘80s.” Scarlet laughed,

“before I was born then.” I knew she wasn’t trying to be mean but that hurt.

“Ouch,” said Stephen quietly.

In Copenhagen, 1981, Searching For…Scarlett’s Dad?

Then it was Stephen’s turn to be his familiar erudite self.

“What have you been up to lately?“ asked Graham.

“Well, I’m keeping busy, working with a couple of charities,” replied Stephen, “Mind, the mental health charity and, of course, I’m still heavily involved with Movember, the organisation that helps people deal with prostate cancer.” He turned to me, “I understand you went through the trauma?” he said warmly. Stephen Fry, one of the most intelligent, charming people in the world was asking me a direct question.

“Eight years ago,” I said, “all good now, functioning at 90%”. Everybody laughed.

“More than most of us I’d guess,” said Graham, giggling into his cards. “Well, not you Scarlet, I’m sure.” Scarlet touched my leg again, then Stephen’s,

“I’m glad you’re both OK now,” she said.

Still touching my leg, Scarlett leant forward and looked me in the eye, I leant forward too until we were both resting our elbows on Stephen’s legs. Then we kissed. Bruce had magicked up a guitar from somewhere and was singing, Rosalita, come out tonight. Suddenly he leapt off the couch and started chasing Graham, who was playing a saxophone, around the stage. In another corner, Stephen was playing a grand piano. Bruce took a run at it and leapt on top, still singing one day we’ll look back on this and it will seem funny. Scarlett and I carried on kissing.

Then I woke up.

Last Night I Dreamed We Were Together Again

Song references:

stare at the side of her face in the spotlight so clear – from Tangled up in Blue by Bob Dylan

Rosalita, come out tonight and one day we’ll look back on this and it will seem funny – from Rosalita by Bruce Springsteen

Last night I dreamed we were together again – from Point Blank by Bruce Springsteen

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Broadbeach to Currumbin Creek Road

December 22, 2020 by Les

Bookings in our Broadbeach apartment had been adversely affected by COVID-19, and the border restrictions, so we decided to avail ourselves of a few days there, along with our electric bikes.

Knowing that NSW/QLD border was due to reopen we planned to ride along a country road which links the two states while traffic was still light. We wanted to avoid the steep hill at Barneys Point near Tweed Heads so we investigated alternate cycling routes over the New South Wales and Queensland border in the direction of Murwillumbah. 

  • Gold Coast High Rise
  • Look, no Cars
  • A Lovely View of Broadbeach

One route seemed particularly interesting through a small town called Tomewin. Pretty much any road which crosses the border near the coast entails some hills but with our electric bikes we weren’t too concerned about the challenge they would represent. With the border closed, the road should be quiet and perfect for cycling.
 
The weather report told us that we should expect winds of between 25 and 35 kilometres an hour. This is not ideal for cycling, even with e-bikes. However, on a positive front, the winds were not expected to pick-up until 11:30. So if we had an early start, we would not have too much of a problem. Bad planning and a night out with friends scuppered this good intention.
 
We eventually left our apartment on Phillip Ave in Broadbeach at 07:30 and were soon on the beautiful bikeways that skirt along the coast down to Burleigh. Being a late start and a Sunday, the paths were busy with other cyclists, skateboarders and families out enjoying the beautiful day and visiting the beach.


Testament to the popularity of the area, was the long queue outside the café we had stopped at on previous visits to Palm Beach. We decided to give it a miss and continued on our way towards Burleigh Heads with a need for coffee high on our minds. We were unsure how to cross over the old highway to the Currumbin Creek Road. As we had done in the past, we took the Old Coast highway down to Palm Beach. As we reached 7th Ave we discovered a lovely cafe where we stopped for cappuccinos, pored over our maps and assessed the different options for getting to Tomewin. 
 
Refreshed after our cappuccino we found our way down to Galleons Way and then onto Currumbin Creek Rd. We were delighted to discover a very wide cycling path and to be waving at other cyclists also taking this clearly popular route. The road towards Tomewin skirts along a river for a great deal of the route. It’s also lined with trees which provided shade and a beautiful archway through which to ride.

  • Decision Provoking Cappuccino
  • Currumbin Creek
  • A Shady Grove

As expected, the road was not busy and the wide cyclepaths made us feel very safe. It was good to be out in the countryside on our own and breathing in the forest air. It was also good to be away from the manic runners who often insist on running in bike paths and always seem to take exception when somebody, be it cycist or pedestrian does not immediately yield and give them priority.
 
We never really intended to make it all the way to the border and decided to stop at a beautiful park a good few kilometres shy of Tomewin. We’d both been riding carefully so as not to deplete our batteries knowing that the wind, which had so far been at our backs, would be pushing against us on the return leg.
 
As we rode back through Burleigh, the markets were in full swing and, as it was approaching lunchtime we decided to investigate food possibilities at the local market.  We found a place selling German sausages and sated our hunger with a fine pair of Bratwurst.

  • Turnaround Point
  • Searching for a Sausage

Fully sausaged-up we tackled the last few kilometres back to Broadbeach gleefully, battery assistance set to the max, in the knowledge that we would soon be recharging our bikes, and our own, batteries relaxing on our balcony while admiring the beautiful pacific ocean views.

  • Busy Beach
  • Quiet Beach
  • Broadbeach

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: cycling, e-bikes, electric bikes, gold coast, gold coast hinterland

Moreton Bay Islands Tour

December 18, 2020 by Les

If you look at a map of Australia, Brisbane is fairly easy to spot, on the right-hand side just above the bulge occupied by Byron Bay, Australia’s most easterly point. If you zoom in you’ll see that, unlike Sydney, Brisbane is not actually on the coast but set inland, along the Brisbane river by about 60 kilometres.
Just nearby, where the river joins the sea is Moreton Bay, formed by the three larger islands; Bribie, Moreton and North Stradbroke. Zoom in a bit more and look a little to the south and you’ll see a group of smaller islands, only some of which are inhabited or accessible by public transport.

Ferries, both car and passenger varieties service the inhabited islands on a frequent basis and our plan was to spend a day hopping on and off these and to explore a number of the islands by bike.

We drove to Redland Bay and rode from the car park to wheel our bikes onto the ferry bound for Russell Island. Fellow passengers consisted of a few day-trippers but mostly island residents who had been into town to stock up on supplies. We noticed that they were a very laid back bunch and could only assume that hairdressers and shoe shops would not be in abundance once we docked on the island.

  • Setting off
  • I haven’t had a haircut for 3 months

The small passenger ferry docked and we wheeled our bikes up the ramp to begin exploring. We soon happened upon a local on an electric bike but when we asked him for some inside knowledge of the best route to take to explore, he seemed very secretive and loathe to share too much information.
So, after a coffee and a look at the map, we decided to head off down a picturesque looking street towards a lookout point called Canaipa Point. The road ran alongside the wonderfully named Ooncooncoo Bay. It was quite hilly and, as we rounded a corner we came across our silent friend from the ferry terminal admiring the view. Obviously, he had been wary of sharing his favourite vista with a couple of townies.

We continued along the path in the direction of the lookout but were disappointed to find, on arrival, that the land which would have afforded the best views was privately owned and guarded by two ferocious dogs. We headed off down a side street where we could glimpse something of the beautiful bay between houses, some of which, it seemed to me, were perched precariously close to the mudflats bordering the bay.

We rode around the lookout point and headed towards the main town via a leafy back lane. Our destination was the library where we hoped to discuss them stocking copies of our cycling related books.

  • A Leafy Lane to the Library
  • Glimpses of the View
  • Boarding

We struck lucky at the library as the Events coordinator was visiting from the mainland and we chatted at length with her about the possibility of doing a reading and presentation of our books at a later date. We then asked for recommendations about cycling routes on the island and were directed to a lady called Desolie who had been perusing the shelves. It turned out she was a cyclist herself and happy to provide a few tips. It also transpired that the secretive gentlemen we had encountered earlier in the day was her husband.

We mentioned a friendlier fellow we had seen on a 3 wheeled bike zooming along the back lanes and she said that must have been Barry, one of three local brothers.
This experienced confirmed the fact that in small communities everyone knows everyone else and what they are doing.

Desolie recommended we visit Macleay, the next biggest island and we rode down to the terminal with the intention of boarding one of the local ferries which ply between the islands.

The library where we met the font of all knowledge

We could see a large car ferry docked at the terminal and wondered if we might be allowed to take our bikes on board. I approached the loadmaster, a wild-looking but affable fellow who said “Sure mate, just let me get all the trucks on first.” A few cars and trucks of various sizes, some so large they barely fit were loaded and finally, we were allowed to board, along with a lady pushing a pram containing a small boy. I asked about payment, “Nah mate, it’s free for pedestrians and cyclists”. Our luck seemed never-ending.

The lumbering ferry reversed from the dock and swung in a wide arc out into the bay. We stood on the deck admiring the scenery and after fifteen minutes or so, arrived at Macleay where once again we had to wait for the vehicles to disembark before wheeling our bikes onto the island.

It was lunchtime and a restaurant had been recommended so we climbed the steep hill away from the ferry dock and headed down the main street of the island via a short detour to another lookout. Once again our view was obscured by newly built houses but it was a quiet road and pleasant riding.

The recommended restaurant was closed, apparently it only opened on weekends and to avoid the rush we were visiting on a weekday. The alternatives were a pie shop and a fish and chip shop. We vacillated between the choices eventually going for two steaming meat pies – invariably the dish of choice for hungry cyclists.

We sat under a beautiful frangipani tree eating our lunch. An hirsute local was quietly strumming his guitar and regaling anyone who would listen with tales of his experience playing with fabled jazz guitarist, Django Rheinhardt. I thought this an unlikely story as, ancient as the amiable fellow was, it seemed unlikely he had ever met Django, who died in 1953.

The maestro didn’t really answer questions, but continued telling his tales while his colleague, who seemed to be some kind of acolyte to his genius, told us there was a burgeoning music scene on the island and we should definitely return “next Sunday when the local band plays at the pub”.

  • Django’s best mate, an acolyte and me
  • Where’s me pie?
  • Another view

We promised to do so and left them to their musical rambling while we rode back towards the ferry terminal. As luck would have it the departing ferry was going directly back to Redland Bay (I never worked out the complex system of the time table or routings) so we decided to call it a day.

The ferry was surprisingly crowded and all of the spaces normally used to secure bikes were taken. Fortunately, the helpful first mate showed us a space where we could safely secure our bikes. We took our seats and the ear-ringed Captain headed out across the bay for home.

  • The first mate assists
  • Ahoy me hearties

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: django, moreton bay, sailing

Northern Rivers Diary

November 23, 2020 by Les

Tracy is obsessed with a small town over the border in New South Wales called Evans Head. Her obsession stems from having spent every Christmas there with her family since the age of two. It’s a pleasant enough place with a nice beach and a meandering river. The town reminds me a little of Herne Bay, my home town in England, in that there’s very little to do apart from walk along the beach (or by the river). I must admit the weather is better but, on the downside there are far fewer pubs. Evans Head is 220 kilometres from Brisbane and Tracy wanted to investigate the possibility of riding there through the undulating countryside which starts just south of the Queensland/NSW border. An area known as The Northern Rivers.

The Northern Rivers area of Australia, Evans Head not shown

First stop on the tour was the Tweed Heads Library where the friendly woman at reception was happy to take our information sheets about the books; Soft Nut Bike Tour of Burma, My Brother’s Bicycle and, Tracy’s nom de plume Jane Ellyson’s book, Over Byron Bay. The lady also offered to scan and send the information to the other libraries in the region.

From Tweed Heads we drove to Murwillumbah. We agreed that riding bikes on this road might not be too pleasant as, although relatively flat, cars and trucks were whizzing along and there was little in the way of a verge or any sign of a bike track.

Tracy introduced herself to Kym Thompson at Murwillumbah library, whom she had previously been in correspondence with regarding the possibility of a speaking engagement. We then visited the tourist office where the staff were extremely helpful. We left overloaded with information and brochures and ideas on ways to get from Tweed to Murwillumbah avoiding the busy roads. Tracy’s preference was to catch a boat from Tweed Heads to Tumbulgum. A nice idea but not overly practical as there wasn’t a suitable docking platform at Tumbulgum.

Leaving Murwillumbah we drove to Mount Warning and visted a place called Mavis’s kitchen, a beautiful Federation style house with lovely gardens and place to eat and buy jams and chutneys. It was too early in the morning for lunch, but we promised ourselves we would come back here at some stage.

We then took the road in the direction of Uki and headed for Main Arm. The lady in the tourist office had told it was “a pretty good road” which ran through a National Forest. There was very little traffic and we thought it could have potential for us on our bikes but once we reached the gravel part of the road, which went on for some way and climbed hill after hill, we thought differently. The road passed through beautiful lush countryside featuring magnificent looking cows and a jillaroo herding the cattle on the back of a majestic horse.

This whole area is also inhabited by a number of hippies (apparently they live in the trees) whose idea of living naturally seems to include the possession of various burnt out, or rusting, cars and trucks.

The drive through the range took us a while and we were ready for lunch when we reached the sprawling metropolis of Mullumbimby. We dined on Southern Fried chicken burgers and chocolate milkshakes (served in milk bottles).

From Mullumbimby, we drove to Coorabell and then into Bangalow.

On the way into Bangalow, we drove over narrow and beautiful roads and stopped at a lookout where an elderly cyclist was taking a nap in the sun.

Bike of a sleeping cyclist

It was a lovely viewpoint and we were disappointed to hear that it will soon be turned into a car park for a viewing platform being constructed there.

Bangalow is a picturesque town and Tracy hopes to use some of the photos she took to market her books about the area.

Some views of Bangalow NSW

We had by now, agreed that the roads were way too narrow, with limited verges to make us feel safe riding our bikes. There were also a number of hills. From Bangalow we went directly to Evans Head taking the recently constructed main road.

On arrival at Evans Head we parked outside the Bowling Club and asked if we could look at some of the cabins they have for rent. They were quite luxurious and a far cry from the flapping tents and cold water showers of Tracy’s childhood stays. We re-entered the club where some locals offered advice on local bicycling routes. As a result of their suggestion, we planned to drive to the small town of Wardell the following day, and take a back road to where the Burns Point Ferry crosses the river into the main local town of Ballina.

We had plans to visit a friend of ours who had recently purchased a small house and some land close by so we headed out of Evans Head and back to the main road en route to our friend Gary’s place at Bungawalbin. His place is set in beautiful countryside and we sat on the terrace listening to the crickets and sound of birdsong late into the evening.

The next morning we awoke early to the sight of a number of kangaroos warily searching for breakfast in the surrounding paddocks.

After breakfast we drove to the ferry point and took the small ferry to Ballina.

The ferry to Ballina

In Ballina, we walked along the water’s edge and took photos. Tracy called into another book shop and gave them information on each of her books. We then took the Coast road to Lennox Head and paused to watch the many hang gliders .

There were a few cycle paths along the coast but few of them really connect the towns and are just short stretches between the beach access points. Any attempt to ride along the entire coast would mean using the main road for long stretches which, while it afforded spectacular views, was quite hilly and busy with traffic. From Lennox Head, we continued North to the fabled resort town of Byron Bay.

At Byron Bay, Tracy called into the Book Room Collective, where she had previously met with the owner, and discussed how sales of her two books, set in the area were progressing.

Enjoying an organic coffee in Byron Bay

She left behind a copy of information on her latest book called Boy from Bangalow.

Our sales and marketing junket ended in Byron Bay and we headed north in the direction of home. Tracy was keen to follow the “old road” which was the preferred route to and from the area until a newly constructed highway opened a few years ago. This winding but picturesque route goes through all the coastal settlements on the way to Tweed Heads and the NSW Queensland border. Many of these small towns are now much sought after places to live and resorts and shopping centres have sprung up in areas which, a few years ago, consisted of little more than a petrol station and a pie shop.

At Tweed Heads, we rejoined the highway and travelled at a snail’s pace for some way before crossing the border. Due to COVID – 19 restrictions on entering Queensland, the four-lane highway is concertinaed into one lane while SES employees inspect traveller’s border passes. With our passes proudly displayed on the windscreen, we entered our home state and sped the remaining 100 or so kilometres back to Brisbane.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: bangalow, byron bay, covid - 19, cycling, northern rivers

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