Tracy is obsessed with a small town over the border in New South Wales called Evans Head. Her obsession stems from having spent every Christmas there with her family since the age of two. It’s a pleasant enough place with a nice beach and a meandering river. The town reminds me a little of Herne Bay, my home town in England, in that there’s very little to do apart from walk along the beach (or by the river). I must admit the weather is better but, on the downside there are far fewer pubs. Evans Head is 220 kilometres from Brisbane and Tracy wanted to investigate the possibility of riding there through the undulating countryside which starts just south of the Queensland/NSW border. An area known as The Northern Rivers.
First stop on the tour was the Tweed Heads Library where the friendly woman at reception was happy to take our information sheets about the books; Soft Nut Bike Tour of Burma, My Brother’s Bicycle and, Tracy’s nom de plume Jane Ellyson’s book, Over Byron Bay. The lady also offered to scan and send the information to the other libraries in the region.
From Tweed Heads we drove to Murwillumbah. We agreed that riding bikes on this road might not be too pleasant as, although relatively flat, cars and trucks were whizzing along and there was little in the way of a verge or any sign of a bike track.
Tracy introduced herself to Kym Thompson at Murwillumbah library, whom she had previously been in correspondence with regarding the possibility of a speaking engagement. We then visited the tourist office where the staff were extremely helpful. We left overloaded with information and brochures and ideas on ways to get from Tweed to Murwillumbah avoiding the busy roads. Tracy’s preference was to catch a boat from Tweed Heads to Tumbulgum. A nice idea but not overly practical as there wasn’t a suitable docking platform at Tumbulgum.
Leaving Murwillumbah we drove to Mount Warning and visted a place called Mavis’s kitchen, a beautiful Federation style house with lovely gardens and place to eat and buy jams and chutneys. It was too early in the morning for lunch, but we promised ourselves we would come back here at some stage.
We then took the road in the direction of Uki and headed for Main Arm. The lady in the tourist office had told it was “a pretty good road” which ran through a National Forest. There was very little traffic and we thought it could have potential for us on our bikes but once we reached the gravel part of the road, which went on for some way and climbed hill after hill, we thought differently. The road passed through beautiful lush countryside featuring magnificent looking cows and a jillaroo herding the cattle on the back of a majestic horse.
This whole area is also inhabited by a number of hippies (apparently they live in the trees) whose idea of living naturally seems to include the possession of various burnt out, or rusting, cars and trucks.
The drive through the range took us a while and we were ready for lunch when we reached the sprawling metropolis of Mullumbimby. We dined on Southern Fried chicken burgers and chocolate milkshakes (served in milk bottles).
From Mullumbimby, we drove to Coorabell and then into Bangalow.
On the way into Bangalow, we drove over narrow and beautiful roads and stopped at a lookout where an elderly cyclist was taking a nap in the sun.
It was a lovely viewpoint and we were disappointed to hear that it will soon be turned into a car park for a viewing platform being constructed there.
Bangalow is a picturesque town and Tracy hopes to use some of the photos she took to market her books about the area.
We had by now, agreed that the roads were way too narrow, with limited verges to make us feel safe riding our bikes. There were also a number of hills. From Bangalow we went directly to Evans Head taking the recently constructed main road.
On arrival at Evans Head we parked outside the Bowling Club and asked if we could look at some of the cabins they have for rent. They were quite luxurious and a far cry from the flapping tents and cold water showers of Tracy’s childhood stays. We re-entered the club where some locals offered advice on local bicycling routes. As a result of their suggestion, we planned to drive to the small town of Wardell the following day, and take a back road to where the Burns Point Ferry crosses the river into the main local town of Ballina.
We had plans to visit a friend of ours who had recently purchased a small house and some land close by so we headed out of Evans Head and back to the main road en route to our friend Gary’s place at Bungawalbin. His place is set in beautiful countryside and we sat on the terrace listening to the crickets and sound of birdsong late into the evening.
The next morning we awoke early to the sight of a number of kangaroos warily searching for breakfast in the surrounding paddocks.
After breakfast we drove to the ferry point and took the small ferry to Ballina.
In Ballina, we walked along the water’s edge and took photos. Tracy called into another book shop and gave them information on each of her books. We then took the Coast road to Lennox Head and paused to watch the many hang gliders .
There were a few cycle paths along the coast but few of them really connect the towns and are just short stretches between the beach access points. Any attempt to ride along the entire coast would mean using the main road for long stretches which, while it afforded spectacular views, was quite hilly and busy with traffic. From Lennox Head, we continued North to the fabled resort town of Byron Bay.
At Byron Bay, Tracy called into the Book Room Collective, where she had previously met with the owner, and discussed how sales of her two books, set in the area were progressing.
She left behind a copy of information on her latest book called Boy from Bangalow.
Our sales and marketing junket ended in Byron Bay and we headed north in the direction of home. Tracy was keen to follow the “old road” which was the preferred route to and from the area until a newly constructed highway opened a few years ago. This winding but picturesque route goes through all the coastal settlements on the way to Tweed Heads and the NSW Queensland border. Many of these small towns are now much sought after places to live and resorts and shopping centres have sprung up in areas which, a few years ago, consisted of little more than a petrol station and a pie shop.
At Tweed Heads, we rejoined the highway and travelled at a snail’s pace for some way before crossing the border. Due to COVID – 19 restrictions on entering Queensland, the four-lane highway is concertinaed into one lane while SES employees inspect traveller’s border passes. With our passes proudly displayed on the windscreen, we entered our home state and sped the remaining 100 or so kilometres back to Brisbane.
